Hilton Head Island: Things to Do

Hilton Head has been my family's vacation spot for the past 5 years.  I have always loved going there, relaxing on their beaches, riding my bike all over the island, and eating more fried seafood and drinking more sweet tea than my body can handle (don't ask...).  When I tell people about Hilton Head, some people actually have no idea what I'm talking about, while others express their desire to go there someday.  In order to help those that want to go to Hilton Head one day (and maybe convince those who have no idea what I'm talking about), I want to share some of my family's favorite things to do and see, and places to eat of course.  I'll be splitting it up into two posts, though, because it's much too much to put into one.  So first, I would like to share some things you and your family need to do while on Hilton Head Island.

Renting Bikes

The first thing you need to do when you arrive at the island is rent bikes from one of the local bike shops.  You can even find some bike shops that will deliver and pick up the bikes for you!  The island was made for bikers, and there are paths all over the island that are wide enough for two lanes of bikers, riding single file.  When you head out, be sure to grab a map of the bike paths, although there will be some maps posted up at various points throughout the island.

Biking is also the best way to view the island, both on the mainland and on the beach.  If you'd like to take the bikes on the beach, make sure you go at low tide, and keep the bikes out of the water!  The salt water will rust the wheels and spokes and some companies will charge if they've noticed you've taken the bikes in the water.  If you go during low tide, though, you should have no trouble at all.  The sand is packed so it is like riding on asphalt.  Except there's one thing: when you start riding, make sure you're riding against the wind.  That way, when you ride back, the wind will be at your back and it'll make for a MUCH easier ride.  Trust me on this one.

On the mainland, be sure to stop at some of the bridges and take a look at the gators and turtles in the ponds.  The turtles will come right up to the bridge because they're so used to people feeding them (please don't), but you'll have to look closer for the gators.  Please be smart and stay on the bridge while you view the gators, although most of them are still pretty small.  I heard a rumor last summer that they take the largest gators off the island.  However, the Sea Shack does serve alligator...and speaking of the Sea Shack, be sure to grab your bike locks and bike to a local restaurant for lunch.

Savannah, Georgia

It's hard to believe that Hilton Head is right across the water from Savannah, Georgia.  Therefore, this is a destination you cannot miss!  I could spend a whole series of posts on Savannah, but instead, I'm going to tell you about the places my family visited this year.

First, though, I must say that one of the best ways to see the city is through a trolley tour.  Sure, it's incredibly touristy, but the trolley tours are run very well and they will bring you to all of the spots you should hope to visit while in Savannah.  Make sure you book with a company that allows a hop on/hop off system, so you can walk around the city at your leisure as well.  My family and I did this last year and we loved it.

Now, some of you may know that I am a Paula Deen fan.  I love her story, I love her cooking, and I love her personality.  She's a riot to watch and she knows her food isn't good for you, it's just good.  Therefore, we just had to make a reservation at her restaurant.  Before I went, I checked some reviews out of curiosity's sake, and to be honest they were not pleasant.  The problem is, people see a celebrity chef and expect celebrity, gourmet food.  Do not go to Paula's restaurant expecting that.  She's going to serve what she makes on TV - down to Earth, greasy, fried, delicious comfort food.

Make sure that if you do visit The Lady and Sons, you make a reservation.  Even with a reservation, you'll need to wait in the waiting area for a short while.  But the waiting area is next to the gift shop (Paula knows how to market herself), so take the time to look through the cookbooks and decide whether or not she actually did sign each one of them...

The waiter comes out with a tray of garlic and cheddar cheese biscuits (amazing) and hot cakes and will give you one of each.  The menu isn't too large, but there are some very tasty options.  I decided I wanted a whole smattering of Southern foods and chose to go for the buffet.  My mother and brother ordered pulled pork sandwiches, which they said were wonderfully seasoned and tender.  The items from the buffet are the classics you find on her show: fried and baked chicken, greens, black eyed peas, mashed potatoes, creamed corn (my fave).  There's nothing that will knock you out of the park, but it is comfort food at its finest.  There's also a little salad bar in the buffet so you don't feel totally guilty about the things you're eating.  The waiters make sure to keep your sweet teas overflowing, and will even send you home with a drink to go.

Not only did the buffet include classic Southern comfort foods, but it included desserts as well and I had been eyeing Paula's Gooey Butter Cake, which I saw in her menu and could not get out of my mind the entire time we were there.  When the waiter brought around the dessert selections, I saw the butter cake was actually a chocolate butter cake, and sensing I was a little disappointed the waiter offered to find the original kind.  He brought out a small square for me and I started nibbling on it immediately.  The cake is everything I wanted and more - a caramelized base, gooey center, and a light crust.  I left a tiny bit for my family to try, and was barely able to snap a picture of it before they devoured it.

The Lady and Sons is certainly a tourist destination, but it's much more agreeable than the reviews all said.  The waitstaff is incredibly friendly, and if you're lucky enough to be seated on the second or third floor the atmosphere is very nice.  Don't go in expecting celebrity worthy food - go in expecting the things you see on Paula's show - down to Earth comfort food.  You will not be disappointed.  And plan to do some walking afterward, your stomach will thank you.  And no, that is sadly not the real Paula Deen, because if it was I would probably be crying in that picture.  Does anyone else have that reaction when they see celebrities?

Afterwards, be sure to hit the City Market to eye the treats at the Candy Kitchen and check out some local artists.  The waterfront is beautiful as well, yet we had to miss it this trip due to the rain.

Kayaking in the Low Country

One thing you cannot miss when coming to Hilton Head is the kayaking.  Many companies boast kayaking or boating tours in which you can spot dolphins.  If you've never been kayaking before, I would suggest taking a kayaking tour, more for safety reasons than anything else.  If you have been kayaking before, go ahead and rent the kayaks by the hour and go dolphin hunting on your own.  One place that my family and I like to go to is Outside Hilton Head.  It's almost impossible to get to, since it's tucked away in the Shelter Cove Harbor/Resort, but it's really worth it.  Keep following signs for Elia's Grill and you'll find it.  The reason we love this particular company is because of the location.  There are lots of marshes for you and your family to explore, and every time we went we managed to find dolphins!  The dolphins will come fairly close to your boat, but don't do anything silly like trying to grab/feed them or sticking your hands in the water.  Even if you don't see dolphins, my family and I loved paddling through the marshes and looking at the crabs, fish, and birds.  Also, make sure you get there early so you can see lots of animal action and assure there will be a kayak waiting for you!

Sea Pines

Sea Pines is a gated community on the south tip of Hilton Head Island.  It does cost $5 to get in, so make sure you get there somewhat early so you can get your money's worth.  As you're driving down N Sea Pines Drive, you're going to come up to Lighthouse Road on your right.  If you take that, it'll take you to the lighthouse and Harbour Town, which is a beautiful spot to walk around, snap some photos, and see the lighthouse and boats.  This is also where the Crazy Crab is located, as well as a few other notable restaurants.  This area is also ideal for its shopping, and it's where you're going to want to pick up your souvenirs.  Should you continue going straight down N Sea Pines Drive, you'll eventually end up at the Salty Dog - a place you must visit if you have a salty dog back at your hotel/villa or back home.  They have souvenirs for your pup and you, and last year we bought Shadow a very nice collar. My family and I visited the Wreck at the Salty Dog for some bar food, and it was pretty decent.  Make sure you get the outdoor seating - this restaurant is at the very bottom of Hilton Head Island!



There are of course places you can play tennis and golf (I know for a fact there are free tennis courts), charter boats and go on fishing expeditions, or just simply relax on the beach.  There are a myriad of things to do on Hilton Head, but I wanted to highlight some of my family's favorites.  I hope they become your family's favorites as well!  Check back Wednesday for the second part: places to eat!

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Posted by Ali B at 11:35 AM

Biking on the Cape

I kind of fell out of my workout routine last week and I honestly have no excuses as to why I hadn't been keeping up with my runs. As any runner knows, though, once you stop - even if it's just for a few days - it gets harder and harder to pick it back up. You begin to lose motivation, other matters take priority, and you forget the reasons why you love to exercise in the first place. I tell myself that it happens to every athlete, but it still means that I need to motivate myself to get back into it. It's just part of the challenge.

 I'm on vacation yet again and each morning I've tried to convince myself to get out of the house and go for a run. I'm staying in a house on Cape Cod and although I've been waking up nice and early because my room faces the East, I still haven't "found the time" for a run. I put this in quotes because it is not a real excuse, but you know when you're on vacation and you decide to go to the beach and then you spend the whole day at the beach and then you come home and you contemplate going for a run but you're sunburnt, hot, and tired and all you want is a nice cool shower. Then once you're showered, it's a little too late to go for a run.

What a difficult life I lead.

 So yesterday morning, I was relieved to have other people motivating me to work out. We had all brought our bikes up because we heard there are beautiful bike trails here on the Cape. I've never been on a true bike trail before (in Hilton Head there were paved paths along the roads for bikers and runners but they were more like slightly wider sidewalks), so I really didn't know what to expect. Therefore, I was very hesitant to bring that bike that isn't mine with me for fear of something happening to it. But Chris made the good point that anything that would happen to the bike up here could just as easily happen to the bike at home. So lest I be a party pooper, I asked my friend to hook up my bike to his bike rack and bring it up to Cape Cod. And honestly, I am so glad I did. The paths were so beautiful. They were about as wide as a road with very little crossings, so they were very safe and secluded. We passed by teal colored lakes, cranberry bogs (which I learned aren't always flooded with water like in the Ocean Spray commercials), and little shops that are set up to sell lunches and ice cream to weary bikers. There was a cool breeze coming off of the lakes and you were just surrounded by trees. It was so relaxing and enjoyable I barely even thought of it as a workout. The path can be quite challenging, though - overall we had about a 170 ft elevation gain and the path itself is 26 miles long. We obviously did not go the full 26 miles because we'd have to go an additional 26 miles back home, but we certainly went far enough (15.6 miles total!). I wish there were bike paths like that near me - biking is such a different experience when you don't have to worry about getting clipped by cars.

I also forgot how much I love riding that bike. I haven't been riding it much at home because I won't be doing the sprint triathlon anymore (but more on that in another post), so I've been focusing on light sprint work instead to boost my ultimate game (more on that in another post too!). But if I had a couple thousand dollars lying around I would buy that bike in a heartbeat. The carbon frame weighs less than the water bottle I had brought along with me and the tires are so thin that only millimeters of the tire make contact with the ground. Therefore, when that bike gets going in the up gears she flies! At times I felt like I was barely putting any effort in yet I was zooming along on these trails. I'll be sad to see that bike go.

So here I am the next morning, legs only slightly sore and covered in chain grease (I'm terrible at getting off of that bike). It's beautiful here on Cape Cod and I honestly do enjoy running on vacation. I love being able to explore your new neighborhood, check out what types of stores are in the little town, and just getting lost in the change of scenery. And (except for my run two weeks ago), running just makes me so happy. It's hard to remember that sometimes, especially when you've been a little lax in your training.

What I'm trying to say is that it's ok if you mess up and miss one or two days (or maybe a week...), the important thing is to just get back on track at the same intensity you left off, unless you're just getting off of an injury. I motivate myself by remembering why I love to run: I love how accomplished I feel at the end of my runs, how healthy and strong my muscles, lungs, and heart are, beating a PR to see the results of all of that effort I put in. And all of that effort can be lost in just 1 week! I don't want to let that happen. I still have 5Ks to run and Ultimate to play before winter sets in.

I know what motivates me, but what are some of the things that motivate you to get back on track?

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Posted by Ali B at 10:21 AM

My Big Girl Bike

For the past couple of weeks I have had a road bike sitting in my garage.  Like, one of those super fancy road bikes with the painful looking seat and handle bars that seem a little too low.  I had been hesitant to ride it, and my first ride was supposed to be two weeks ago but we couldn't get one of the pedals off (the girl I'm borrowing the bike from uses clip on pedals), so our first ride was postponed until today.  The seat felt absolutely too high and to say I was wobbly is an understatement.  We rode around the neighborhood as I got used to shifting gears, keeping the bike steady, and going over 10 mph.  There were some screams of "oh God I'm going to die," but Todd was patient as I panicked going down hills and fussed with the stirrups on my pedals.  Once I got somewhat comfortable, we decided to hit the main roads.

The main roads were fine, all of those years riding to practice and class while going to school in DC definitely helped.  After crossing Independence Ave, riding alongside the worst drivers in America, and dodging tourists on the National Mall, I barely noticed the cars as they passed by, which was a welcomed one less thing to worry about.  We were biking in another neighborhood, and I had just gone down a hill without squeezing the brakes until my hand cramped up (ok 10 mph feels really fast on a bike), when it was time to go up a little hill.  Todd said that this was the kind of hill that was easy to "hammer up," meaning I was supposed to stand up on the pedals and ascent the little hill.  Well, I hammered up, and my bike started wobbling, and then it stopped, and then I couldn't get my feet out of the stirrups, and then I just fell sideways.  I was fine, and actually it was kind of what I needed.

When I first started rock climbing, I was so scared once I got about 10 feet off of the ground because I was terrified of falling off of the wall and crashing to the ground.  I decided that, at about 5 feet off the ground, I would let myself slip off of the wall to prove to myself that with someone I trusted belaying me I would not fall.  So that's what I did, and after that I felt much more confident when scaling the walls.

So it was pretty much the same thing for biking.  Once I fell, and I was ok, it made me not so timid anymore.  Not that falling is a good thing, but it will happen.  And it happened when I least expected it to: going about 1 mph up a hill.  I absolutely wanted to keep going.

We went to our friends' house, but no one was home, so we biked more, going up and down hills, Todd giving me tips along the way.  He even showed me part of the route for the Pascack Valley Sprint Triathlon.  I was having a blast once I stopped worrying about falling and my adrenaline was pumping.

Todd said he wanted to take me on the same route that our friend's dad took him on their first bike ride together.  We went up a small hill and he told me to try not to brake while we were going downhill, like I had been doing every time we went faster than 13 mph.  The reservoir was peeking over the trees, the breeze was cool, and I felt great.  So I didn't brake, and I went 21 mph, and I powered through a bend, and then down another hill at 21 mph, and then up another hill.  I had never felt so accomplished in my life (ok that's a huge exaggeration but it was a really wonderful feeling).  I loved feeling the wind in my face, my legs pushing me as I changed the gears expertly, feeling that deep burn in my quads as I pushed myself up the hill, telling myself in my head to not stop pedaling.  It was great, I look forward to more rides and, in time, some rides on my own.

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Posted by Ali B at 8:42 PM